Friday 22 February 2008

Paris for fussy eaters and tired girls on a business trip, vegan paris part 1 (Paris végétalienne)

Having a blackberry is more or less like being kidnapped by the aliens and  having a microchip  

installed behind your ear, you know that they know where you are and there is no excuse and no hiding. I had it for he past week and it was a terrifying experience.

I got into my first trip to Paris after the launch of the new faster Eurostar and the new re-vamped St Pancras station opening, two hours and fifteen minutes can be an eternity if you use the time to reply to an infinite number of email and each flashing envelope on the screen makes you jump in your seat.

So was this a week of hard work and modern days slavery? Well just partly.

I enjoy Paris and go fairly often, even this time after ten hours work and when my thumb was about to fall off (yes the BB again) I still had the energy to go out, and exhausted the day after I never regretted it!

Paris has been difficult for me in the past as it is hardly a paradise for vegetarians, and even if there is a great deal of bakeries and ethnic restaurants I always felt like I was just filling myself with bread and cous cous and not much else.

But something is changing!As soon as I arrived at la Gare du Nord a group of dreadlocked-pierced people were giving food away to the commuters. 

When I approached them the lovely girl that handed over the dahl told me that the food was végétalienne (vegan) and made with the supermarket donations (of ingredients near the expiring date).

they are part of  FOOD NOT BOMBS how could I disagree?


was this really happening in Paris? In the country of the croque-monsieur and Beef Bourguignon

The first night I went to  one of my favourite restaurants: Le Potager du Marais, it is in fact located in the best area, it’s cheap delicious and the atmosphere is so great, I needed to book as he place is minuscule, if I was in Paris with a non-vegetarian I would choose this place for sure as their veg dishes are delicious, also they have great spelt and barley beers and good wines. I liked the fact that the waitresses spoke English, Italian and Greek!

22 Rue Rambuteau

tel 0142742466

 

A good snack in the afternoon in the Marais could be at the Victoire Supreme du Coeur especially if you don’ mind a bit of rudeness from the staff (maybe I was just unlucky?).

27-31 Rue du Bourg Tibourg

tel 0140419503

 

My favourite peaceful island to unwind is a macrobiotic place, where the food is delicious and clean and it works on your body when you have been really working hard and talked all day and there are no fashion people on sight…

Au Grande Appetit 

9 Rue de la Cerisaie 

tel 0140270495

You can drink as much Japanese tea as you like and even if you eat a lot you will not spend more then 17 euros. I loved their delicate petit assiette that is a complete and balanced meal that made me feel immediately home. 

The ladies that run the place are very friendly and there is even a Japanese scenographer passionated about Italian theatre that works there part time as the food is soooo good!

The dessert are delicious too. In line with the macrobiotic principles don't expect a fancy restaurant but a simple and pleasant one.

 

A bizarre place is The Green Garden, the place is a Chinese specialized in Mock meats located in the China town of Paris. It is not central and when I booked it through my hotel (my French is rather poor) the lady at the reception gave me a strange look but I just ignored her and kept my eyes on the infernal device (BB if you were wondering)

20 rue National (M porte d'Ivry

tel 0145829954

I visited the place as it was reviewed on the beautiful Chez Pim blog, the location is really unappealing but the owner is the nicest person and the food is really really good (if you like Chinese of course)

 

Much more convenient is the  Vietnamese  Tien Hiang restaurant in the Bastille area also specializes in mock meats but as that’s really not my favourite thing I ordered a fresh soup, and what arrived is like the soup I always dream of when I think Asian food. Lots of different  ingredients, quite filling and superhot, it is exactly what I would expect to get at Wagamama (that is sadly always below my expectation). You don't get any cheaper then this in Paris and it is a cheerful simple place just 10 minutes walk from Bastille.

 


92 rue du Chemin Vert

Tanks to the friends that make Paris always a great place to be! That took me to the theatre, made me laugh, and to the ones that  I met as a coincidence(!)




11 comments:

Unknown said...

happy week end

roberta said...

oops the weekend is now over... thanks anyway, I hope that you had a good one!

urban vegan said...

Oh, j'adore Paris, but it's not a veggie paradise. I do know that Virginie of Absolute Green has been instrumental in creating France's first magazine for vegetarians, so mais oui--something is changging. Bonne journee!

roberta said...

Thanks for passing by.. I was already a fan of your 101 simple vegan meals ready in 10 minutes or less!

Virginie is great pity that my french is not that great..

bazu said...

My friend referred me to your blog, because I'll be visiting Paris next week and haven't been there since going vegan. I was so happy to read your post- I hope I run into Paris Food Not Bombs while I'm there! Thanks for all the tips.

roberta said...

Bazu, thank for your words it's great when you know where to go to Paris... I will be so happy if you'd let me know your thoughts once you are back..

Virginie said...

Hi Roberta,
A pleasure to discover your blog. Tell me next time you come to Paris. I live 2h away by train, and sometimes have a trip there. You chose the best of our restaurants, congrats !
You're right, I should write more often an English version to add to the French one. But time is lacking and my English is too bad for me to write the whole texts (and not just recipes). i'll try to do my best next weeks.
A bientôt !

roberta said...

Hello Virginie!

thanks for stopping by, next time I am in Paris I will drop you a line, please do the same if you are in London, and I can take you somewhere nice for lunch.
I am starting to study french soon, so I will be able to read your blog without hesitation!

roberta said...

Hello Virginie!

thanks for stopping by, next time I am in Paris I will drop you a line, please do the same if you are in London, and I can take you somewhere nice for lunch.
I am starting to study french soon, so I will be able to read your blog without hesitation!

Eva Nataraja said...

ciaooo Roberta , ci sono stata anche io da Potager in rue rambuteau!!ma negli altri no , grazie cmq x gli indirizzi!!!
un abbraccio

Unknown said...

beh quello e' il migliore di Parigi quindi brava, brava.
ma quando apri un ristorante tu in Romagna che un bel vegano ci manca proprio?

Baci
R